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Luigi's is one of those establishments whose clients span generations. If you read the online reviews, there are two main camps: those who liked it before Gordon Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares stepped in, and those who thought it had long since slid into the mediocre. But a few weeks after the gruff Brit left, it seems the restaurant has taken his suggestions with a grain of salt. Perhaps to mollify the regulars, the restaurant has gone back to offering its old menu in addition to Ramsay's. For sure, order the calamari: It has a golden batter that's wondrously fried to a greaseless, coral-like texture, served fryer-hot with an arrabiata that perks up the senses not already stimulated by the lacy crunch of the squid.