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The focus here is on street cuisine, but there's elegance in every step. An order of chiles toreadores-grilled, splayed jalapeños-comes artfully placed in a bowl, with limes snuck in between each. Daily specials hang on the wall and are updated weekly. Breakfasts include rare dishes such as albañil, scrambled eggs with a tomatillo salsa. The to-go menus are in English and Spanish, ensuring any newbies to chilango cuisine will understand quickly. It's really simple, actually: just meditations on masa.