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Lark Creek is a bistro in Newport Beach. Try the chick pea fries: mashed chick peas spread into a thin layer on a sheet pan, refrigerated to let it set, then cut it into strips and breaded before a gentle fry, turning the finger-thick spears to a rigid crispness. They look like doppelgangers for Carl’s Jr.’s French toast sticks—golden-brown and served upright in a bowl as though they were actual pommes frites. Also try the deconstructed a tamal called a “tamale pancake.” It resembles a taco acorazado, the chilango dish in which masa is sculpted to a thin pillow, crisped on a griddle, and then topped with meat. It will eat like a taco-truck meal despite the artful swipe of sauce painted on the plate and where you are: at Fashion Island in a restaurant that looks like a cross between a cramped French bistro and an expensive steakhouse.