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KoKo, like most Korean fried chicken spots, fries their chicken twice, a process that not only separates the skin from the meat so that you can pull the skin off with a tug that requires all the effort of removing a silk glove, but also creates meat so juicy that rivers of fat glisten on it. The skin is golden, jagged, almost pre-Cambrian in appearance, but the taste is unadulterated fat, making chicharrones seem as rich as chomping on a pencil. They do offer dunking sauces, but they’re almost superfluous; that’s how brilliant these wings are. Prices are cheap, the beer and soju flows freely, so show up in the evening, when the Korean youth of Buena Park and Fullerton flock to the place to crunch through an order, along with other Korean pub favorites.