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It's the rotisserie bird's skin you encounter first. With its lipid reserves thoroughly rendered off, it rustles like burnt paper when you take your knife to it. In its dark mahogany depths lurks a concentrated flavor. There's cumin for sure, a staple of Peruvian cooking, and perhaps garlic. But what else? You can't say for sure. Whatever it is, it's a magic rub that enters deep into the meat, which is, by the way, so moist from tail to sternum you can barely tell the dark from the white.