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Roberto Bignes holds a certificate from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, an Italian group of pizza makers that keeps track of this sort of thing. And at his modest square of a restaurant kitty-corner from Triangle Square, he skims ever closer and is seemingly determined on fine-tuning his pies toward the Neapolitan pizza ideal. His mozzarella is house-made. His olive oil, premium. And most important, when you bite into his crust, it crackles with the prickly sound of a million tiny molecular bonds breaking.