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If it served nothing but galbi tang, it would still be enough reason for you to wait in line at this former A&W Drive-In. Though the meat has been coddled under a long, slow simmer to loosen its grip with just a gentle nudge of your chopsticks, all Han Yang diners take it upon themselves to pick up the ribs and fulfill their basest, primal caveman instincts of tearing off sopping mouthfuls of it with their teeth. The soup will, at first, appear to be unremarkable; save for green onions, softened cloves of garlic, a long rectangle of thinly sliced omelet, vermicelli noodles and dots of red jujubes, it’s crystal-clear and plain-looking. But a taste will reveal it to be a nectar sweet, salty and savory—a broth that can only be produced someone with saintly patience. It’s simply breathtaking. To just call it a great Korean soup would be unfair—this is just great soup.