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Gyutan Tsukasa is a Japanese restaurant inside Mitsuwa Marketplace in Costa Mesa. The white-hot coal brazier and the meat roasting on its grates lure you in. It’s tended by a guy wearing a terry-cloth towel on his head and using long, wooden chopsticks to flip and prod the pieces over the smoldering heat. The man works in small batches. Once in a while, he plucks off one or two that have attained brownness, then piles the gyutan (beef tongue) onto a waiting plate. He promptly replaces the empty spots on the grill with more meat he peels off from a raw, bloody block the size of boulder. If this were an outdoor food court, the smoky aromas snaking out of his hibachi would tickle every nostril within a half-mile radius. You have exactly four order options: a bento-box lunch set that’s bundled up with paper; a platter of fanned-out beef tongue, served with a side of soup and rice; a curry plate with a sea of gravy; and a deluxe meal set in which you get a little bit of everything, including a mucilaginous saucer of grated yam called tororo.