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Gia Hoi is a Vietnamese restaurant in Westminster. It specializes in the food of Central Vietnam, specifically bún bò Hue. If pho is the ultimate Vietnamese comfort food, then bún bò Hue is that jigger of bourbon you swig from a flask during a funeral, all about spice and zing and a lemongrass blast in the broth. You’ll be asked if you want it with all the fixings, and you do: a giant cube of congealed pig’s blood, a huge trotter complete with fat, bone, tendons and jellied skin; fish cake and fish balls; and a broth that falls just to the safe side of the Geiger counter. And then come the sides: a Mekong Delta of herbs that includes everything from banana blossoms to rau ram, plus a canister of pickled garlic slivers. It’s a rude soup, but it’s a beautiful one, and Gia Hoi’s bowl is one of the best in Little Saigon.