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This joint doesn't feature the most extensive of menus-really, about a dozen sphihas; free mint tea; a pastry counter; and spinach sambouseks, a crispy, triangle-shaped pastry you can take home by the dozen. But who needs variety when such cheap, delicious dishes are ready for easy eating? Four sphihas feature zaatar, the herb-and-spice mixture that alternately refreshes and zings. Zaatar with salty cheese is like a quesadilla; the zaatar and labneh (Lebanese cream cheese) sphiha comes rolled up like a burrito, a presentation that melts the labneh slices into a gooey surprise.