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Before he bought the place, Flavio Renteria was the dishwasher here for almost 20 years. In that time, the Mexico City immigrant learned all he could about the cuisine, even going to Italy to immerse himself in all things culinary. Now he's the boss, producing red-sauced meals like the best of them. Expect familiar comfort-food staples such as homemade meatballs: dense, hand-formed, beefy orbs are draped in melted mozzarella and left swimming in a pool of tart, almost fruity marinara. And he's probably hired someone else to wash the dishes.