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Like Dee Nguyen's Break of Dawn, Early Bird reclaims what Norms, Denny's and IHOP have subjugated in recent decades. Breakfast shouldn't be held to the confines of sunny-side-ups, bacon, pancakes and waffles, though you can certainly order all of that here. The waffle, for instance, can be had with berries and thick whipped cream, crisped to buttery golden brown yet flatter than the usual Eggo disc. But at Early Bird, it's destined for a higher calling.