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The Ciao folks take the commonplace and push it toward the divine. That pizza: thick, with great-wonderful cheese that melts to a creaminess almost unknown to local Italian-American pizzerias. Most pizzas need toppings to mask the limp cheese, the rancid marinara, the forgettable crust, but Ciao’s excels—I ordered a slice of cheese pizza and, for the first time I can remember, didn’t put any red flakes or Parmesan cheese on it. Pastas are perfectly al dente; the subs, filling and nuanced. And the garlic knots, hunks of bread dusted with garlic, are wonderful. Authentic? Not in the least—and no one cares, busy as they are chowing down.