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Chef Oge Dalken's dishes are like a riddle asked, then wittily answered. What, for instance, is a potato pear? Well, it's a Japanese corokke-like, breaded, mashed-potato ball that's stuffed with mushroom duxelle, molded into a pear's shape, and eaten with a wild-mushroom marsala cream sauce. And what is this dessert called "Milk & Cereal"? Why, it's a bowl of perfectly set panna cotta playing the role of milk and the crispy Greek pastry dough called kataifi doubling for shredded wheat. A scoop of Cinnamon Toast Crunch ice cream drives home the punch line like a rim shot.