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This is a different kind of Capital Seafood: an up-market design that looks unlike the Garden Grove stalwart you may be used to. Glossy, glassy and classy, it's what Steve Wynn's Chinese restaurant would look like if done by Versace. Added to that, this Capital does excellent dim sum: The dried scallop in sticky rice is wrapped in a lotus leaf parcel, with the starch finding the right balance, being neither too loose nor too glutinous. Everything is executed with a perfectionist's eye for details. The pork shumai is topped with orange-hued caviar for a splash of color. Squares of jiggly gelatin desserts come in at least three pastel-hued strata. The brightness of the seaweed salad is matched by its freshness.