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Canyon, Rich Mead's new venture, is a migration inland for the chef, following the recessionary trend that saw other coastal cooks such as Takashi Abe of Bluefin and Mark Norris of White Horses head for higher ground. Mead has lowered the prices a bit, but his food appears largely unchanged. His signature herb-roasted half chicken still has that coveted skin turned to a chicharrón. It's so well-rendered it separates itself from the meat. With a swooping curl and gnarled crunch of a kettle-cooked potato chip, it tastes of pure poultry-ness.