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There are no omelets, no breakfast burritos, no poorly done gyros or stale pancakes here. The only ethnic dishes available-a teriyaki plate, wet burrito and fried taquitos-are as deliciously antiquated to the American palate as this dive's slogan, "Here's the Beef!" No, the focus is on four sandwiches, each with variations. Their hamburger is a gloriously simple thing: a grilled sesame bun smushed down on a juicy patty, with shredded lettuce and tomatoes that don't taste like the Ralphs produce aisle.