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Buccaneer sells great pizzas, massive heroes, okay pastas, a garlic bread that redeems the meal and generously portioned salads. But the most noteworthy dish is the calzone. Huge! Golden outside, steaming inside and with a ricotta-mozzarella one-two so potent it nearly overwhelms your palate. But the chefs know their way around cheese, and the ingredients stuffed inside-red onions, fresh meats, even artichoke-are bold enough to counterbalance.