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The offerings change by the hour and aren't featured alongside names at this buffet. Beef stews, spicy-sweet and unctuous, sit next to ruler-long skewers of pork balls, charred and smoky. Rows of spring rolls and egg rolls are stacked on trays next to one containing braised catfish, murky and perfect for throwing on rice. But if there's one must-get that's always available here, it's the bánh tieu, puffed-up pieces of bread the size of a balled-up T-shirt and studded with sesame seeds that pop with their tang.