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The website for Andrei's does just as those other environmentally sensitive restaurants do (the word "sustainable" is repeated five times on one web page). Its full title (Andrei's Conscious Cuisine & Cocktails) breaks it from the pack. But don't expect to be accosted by unshaven hippies flashing peace signs. The servers - young, uniformed, clean-cut and professional - could be flight attendants. The restaurant itself is very corporate. Constructed with a surplus of marble, it's unwaveringly rectangular and as sterile as an executive boardroom. And the food ain't exactly vegan. If you've seen clams bigger and plumper than in the Manila clams appetizer, you were gazing at Botticelli's Birth of Venus. And the thick burgers come with homemade fries tossed in truffle salt. Ask for them, but don't expect any "herbal" brownies for dessert.