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All That Barbecue is a Korean barbecue restaurant in Irvine. It’s like other $20 AYCE Korean barbecues, but it has a quirkiness all its own. It names its dishes with pun-filled phrases such as “Don’t Rib Me Off.” And it pre-cooks some of its proteins even before your tabletop grill has had a chance to reach searing temperature. The flap-tail steak, for instance, is grilled to a rare center, then served in slices for you to finish cooking to your level of desired doneness. Also pre-cooked are the boneless beef ribs, the meat rolled up like a tube sock and served on a pie tin. You then unfurl it on the grill top, letting the heat penetrate the thick length of cattle and slowly roast it to brownness before you snip it to bite-sized pieces with shears. But it’s the classics you covet. There are those thin sheets of pork so well-marinated and mired in gochujang it’s simultaneously too sweet and too spicy to eat without rice. There are slabs of chicken thighs coated in the same sauce, a sesame- and soy-perfumed bulgogi with onions, whole blocks of pork belly, and unshelled shrimp that you need to roast until their antennas char and their innards percolate into a sort of sauce.