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Located within view of the lifeguard station, on the city's busiest one-way street, Alessa takes no reservations and routinely spawns Avatar-like lines on weekends. It's noisy, cozy and cramped, less a restaurant than a bar with tables and chairs squeezed into every possible corner to maximize the prime real estate. You'll no doubt be seated almost shoulder-to-shoulder to the next guy, so close you'll mutually drool at what the other's having, like the zucca, a butternut squash-stuffed ravioli drenched in brown butter and garnished with deep-fried sage leaves. Though the dish is merely an appetizer, like the most memorable scene in a great movie, it's the one you'll talk about on the ride home.