You know it's morning at Yum Cha Cafe when you see a jumble of bodies
the hot display cases like magnets. It is not uncommon to see little old
overtaking other little old ladies, elbowing one another to the front of the
and jockeying for their turns at what is possibly the cheapest dim-sum stash
existence. Order yours by screaming (it's the only way to get yourself
above the din) and pointing at stuff when you have to. You pay in cash,
they package what you choose into Styrofoam containers with disposable
chopsticks and hot sauce in little tear-away packets; some
refinement is sacrificed for cheapness. The cheong fun can be thick when it
should be delicate, the har gow is often pasty when it should be
translucent, and the
tom--deep-fried balls of shrimp paste speared on sugarcane--are usually cold
dense by the time you get them home. But any complaints will be silenced
realize how little you paid.
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