Waiiha Sushi looks almost half finished, like they saw the primer being applied and then just told contractor, "Stop right there. That's perfect." But the food can rival moat. Take a roll called "Moon Light," which is fried shrimp, crab meat and asparagus tucked inside a thin omelet that's cut into six wheels. No rice is present to obscure the oceany sweetness. No wasabi is applied to interrupt perfection. Who needs decor or kitschy doodads when they serve this thing called "Candy Salmon", a $3-a- piece single bite shot of salmon draped over a ball of crab meat mix dipped in fine-grit tempura crumbs. You drag it through a dribbled sticky sweet soy sauce and let the cool silk of the meat dissolve into nothing in your gullet.
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