Umami Mongolian Grill is perhaps the first of its genre in Orange County to move away from mere frozen meat shavings grilled over an expansive stove and toward something approaching a gourmet experience. You can have the unlimited bowls, for sure, pack down your tureen with meat and veggies, baptize the meal with any combination of sauces offered, see them shrivel on the furious stove-but the person who does the mixing is a smiling man in a chef's jacket who also sneaks in Thai and Filipino specials.
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