Tony’s Deli is unapologetically old-schol. The sandwiches-only menu is a time capsule of what Anaheim is: a working-class town that wants its food fast and in huge portions. Some of the sammies are standards—fine French dip, gargantuan subs, a Reuben out of LA’s Fairfax district. Others are just bizarre, beautiful creations: the Sheepherder is a mass of meat—corned beef, pastrami, salami and turkey—stacked between rye, while the Chicago might be the last unironic tongue sandwich left in North County. And this is also one of the last restaurants in Anaheim that cater to German palates—between the hefty knackwurst plate, the briny sauerkraut and the braunschweiger sandwich, you want to raise a toast to the German colonists who settled the town.
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As my culinary bucket list for Anaheim is quickly getting checked off. Earlier this year, I talked about how I had finally visited Ararat Armenian Cuisine and that the two other great restaurant mysteries in my hometown were the AVI...