The Country Club

330 E. 17th St.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
949-281-2582

Details

  • Mon.-Fri., 2 p.m.-2 a.m. Sat.-Sun., 10 a.m.-2 a.m.
  • Full bar
  • Valet Parking
The Country Club is an American restaurant in Costa Mesa. Apart from the acoustics, this remodel by Wild Goose Tavern’s Mario Marovic of what used to be Pierce Street Annex was done well. I could tell no expense was spared to turn it into something out of the Roaring Twenties. The French dip rivals Philippe’s in LA and Houston’s in Irvine. The sandwich was faultless, with a butter-toasted hoagie roll so light it floated and sliced prime rib so soft it melted. And then there was the au jus—a dip built not from bouillon cubes. but from meat drippings, fond and stock. The white seabass entrée is a solid choice: Topped with mojo verde and served atop a spinach gnocchetti and carrots roasted to sugary shrivels, the flesh is delicate and the skin seared so crisply it’s indistinguishable from a chicharrón.

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