Sit at the Tabi-Ji sushi bar and prepare to be fed. This offshoot of Shiki - one of the oldest (if not the oldest and continuously running Japanese restaurants in OC) - already has its own set of regulars who know that they will get their money's worth in food. They make big, generous, honking sushi. When most salmon skin rolls are anemic, Tabi-Ji's will be overloaded, nigh pregnant, with more meat than skin--fat cylinders that could hardly fit in a normal mouth. Uni is luscious and as sweet and creamy as custard. A special of conch sushi chews with a deliberate crunch. The Mango Roll, spicy tuna hugged with fistfuls of rice, is covered in salmon and formed into wheels gilded in sliced mango. The space used to be an Italian restaurant. Now it's a catch-all Japanese cuisine emporium where you can also load up on all the tempura and teriyaki you could ever want, or see a Benihana-style show. One area with two teppanyaki islands is dedicated to the rap-a-tap-tap spatula theatrics of two teppan chefs.
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