Smokey Fred’s is a barbecue restaurant in Orange. It ups the ante by proclaiming itself the master of four distinct barbecue traditions: Memphis, Carolina, Texas and Kansas City, all about as similar as Coto de Caza is to Stanton. Carolina gets repped in the form of an unsauced pulled-pork sandwich tarted up by a great coleslaw; on the side is a piquant carafe of vinegar sauce, like a thicker Tapatío. Memphis shows up in blocks of rib that slip off bones as though water off glass; the KC sandwich is the only oversauced thing here, but that’s because the city likes its ‘cue sweet and spicy. And Texas makes its presence known with charred brisket and a plump Polish kielbasa. Heck, Fred himself will even throw in a Louisiana link just for the hell of it.
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"Hey, Fred!" is something you'll hear at least once while at Smokey Fred's in Orange, and it's not just because the guy behind the counter is—you guessed it!—Fred. People want to shoot the shit with him, since he's a gre...