Silver Spoon doesn't look like it's much of a kitchen, given it occupies half of a claustrophobic grocery store stacked with subcontinental produce called Irvine Halal. What passes as the restaurant is really just a couple of tables separated from the rest of the store by curtains. It's Indian with spices dialed up to 11 in the Pakistani tradition. All the curries shine, but try the bitter melon one, a specialty of--of all places--the southern Indian state of Kerala, an impolite take that seizes your senses with an unforgiving zap.
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Most of my Silver Spoon eating experiences have been during lunch, at its small but potent buffet: Pakistan summed up in six or so trays. Mutton seekh kabob, juicy and gamy, almost always occupies one. Bowls of raw red onions and ch...