Located across from the San Juan Capistrano Mission, the restaurant leaves one question in your mind: Did Pedro build a taco stand by the mission, or did the mission settle down next to Pedro's? Your food will arrive in a time period best measured in geologic terms, but the tamales are damn good. You'll swear each one was schlepped over the border by burro.
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As I mentioned last week, I recently interviewed John Sedlar, the man behind the fantastic Rivera in Los Angeles and one of the icons of the Southwestern-cuisine movement during the 1980s, for my book on the history of Mexican cuisi...