To eat Roma D' Italia's cannelloni is to be seduced, immediately and
completely, even more so than by its Old Town Tustin environs and homey dining room. Brought out fuming and bubbling, you gently lift it out of its warm slumber. The thin sauce covering the top slips off slightly as you do so, revealing a lithe, naked skin. And when you take your spoon to it, the cannelloni yields at your touch as if it were half-melted Häagen-Dazs. Every morsel that passes your lips trembles in ecstasy and liquefies into a mouthful of savory protein pudding.
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Tustin's 50-year-old red-sauce institution, Roma D'Italia, shut down last fall to make way for a major remodel of the place. "Our building is starting to show its age, so we've decided it is time to make a few upgrades so that we ca...