Ricas Gorditas makes the masa-heavy disk the way my army of tías have since they were teens living in the rancho: a thick base with a thin flap on top, as crispy-feathery as nori, bulging because it's holding back a hill of some type of steaming guisado (stew) that's spilling from a small slit on the side. The zacatecanos who run the truck offer about a half-dozen-smaller than they should be, but no less bueno.
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Ever been to Orange County’s Lonchera Lane? Main Street in Santa Ana from 17th Street to Warner Avenue. Its side streets host about 20 loncheras daily, offering everything from Nayarit-style aguachile and the legendary taco ac...