Restaurant Marin is an American restaurant in Costa Mesa. What Noah Blom serves here is perhaps the best argument that we would be better off moving away from the molecular-gastronomic tendencies of Adrià and toward Apicius. The chef’s cooking is old school—the kind that revels in chicken pot pies and country-skillet-style breakfasts.
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Wednesday, October 26, 2016 at 3 p.m. by Edwin Goei
Noah Blom, who now has two restaurants at Costa Mesa's SOCO, cooks everything with wood—and I do mean everything. The four-layered cakes? Baked in an oven with a crackling fire at the back. The fries? Cooked in a cast-iron pot heate...