the proprietress fully expects you to order the specialty of the house, which is plastered all across the menu and cooked by her husband in the back in a large squat oven. This is cá n??ng da giòn, a whole catfish splayed out onto a platter, lacquered with sesame oil, then roasted until its skin becomes fish chicharron and its snow-white flesh transforms into something tender and buttery. During your meal, a dozen or so families will shuttle back and forth picking up aluminum trays filled with catfish. Here cá n??ng is the Vietnamese equivalent of those supermarket rotisserie chickens you pick up on the way home from work.
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