Paul’s Famous Burgers is a diner in Costa Mesa. It’s a greasy spoon with an encyclopedic menu that spans Greek gyros, Japanese-American teriyaki, Mexican food and burgers. The crowd is purely working-class—Mexican immigrants, construction guys, men taking a break from their car or surf jobs over in the Westside’s industrial parks—with nary a hipster in sight. It’s amazing it’s taken this long to get such a place on West 19th Street. Paul’s food is fine save for those breakfast burritos. The Paul’s burrito is a bit too heavy on the egg and light on the breakfast links, but the other breakfast burritos are wonderful—you can smack your burrito against a door and it’ll open.
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California is America's burrito empire, from the Mission cylindrical god of San Francisco to San Diego's California burrito to the Inland Empire's garbage burrito, which I described to a friend as "the Mission burrito without preten...