There's not much glamour in the presentation at Pacific Coast Hot Dog. Accouterments don't stray from the roll call of hot-dog standards-saccharine relish, freshly sliced onions and tomatoes, even some sauerkraut for the Teutonic among us. But in this simplicity, there's a summer's worth of love, heat, fireworks and heartache. Try the namesake special, which features as many apparent conflicts as an episode of The OC: cumin-spiked chili fights with bitter mustard and zingy onions for domain over your palate.
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