Playas de Sinaloa is like most any other Sinaloa-style seafood restaurant-cheesy décor, light provided by neon beer signs, buxom waitresses in impossibly tight skirts and shirts that respectively rise too high and sink too low. But you're here for the aguachile, the best choice in a restaurant brimming with future dinners for you. The aguachile's green salsa scalds, but the chilled shrimp quickly soothe. Once you try this aguachile, you won't care much for any other seafood dish, even as you pant and gasp and swear you'll never try it again.
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Aguachile is one of the great seafood dishes of the Americas, a blistering study of contrasts native to the Mexican Pacific coastal state of Sinaloa. It seems simple enough—chilled shrimp marinated in lime juice, served on top...