Half of Costa Mesa seems to worship the glazed twists, which look like a DNA strand come to life, but the swirling, slowly rising cinnamon rolls are a must-eat: chewy inside, completely caked on the outside with a glaze that cracks when you bite into them. Or-better yet-unspool the roll to reveal the cinnamon frosting inside. If you want it topped with even more frosting, the shop's staff will oblige-and it's piping fresh.
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Lost in the foodie hubbub over cupcake this and pan dulce that is the doughnut: the unassuming, fat-producing pastry of 3 a.m. fryings and black coffee, of Cambodian families misspelling the word to save a few bucks on the marquee a...