Noon Kabob is a Persian restaurant in San Juan Capistrano. The place does all the standards, from koobideh to chunks of beef, intricate polos (rice pilafs) to soups and stews that rotate on a daily basis. A long, huge grill in the open kitchen finds the cook doing the culinary version of a spinning-plates performance, turning over kebabs down the line until they reach that beautiful medium between charred and juicy. There’s even a Persian burrito—really just lavash with kebab and rice inside to appeal to non-Persians, but no less delicious than the regular offerings.
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The tahdig served at Noon Kabob is so big it resembles sheets of dry ice: big, bulky, hard things that shatter into shards every time you put your fork through it. Sure, the stew on top softens the meal a bit, but this is a dish pro...