Lurking within this seemingly mundane Mexican restaurant are delicious, complex rarities from the central state of Puebla, platters more familiar to an ethnography than an Orange County menu-dense mole poblano, pale goat menudo and guilotas, a chewy type of quail so region-specific that it's not even listed in most Spanish dictionaries.
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It takes quite a bit of huevosto name a restaurant after yourself, but it's an eatery tradition as hallowed as disappearing silverware. And while popular culture reveres the Pucks, the Joes and the McDonald's of the world, our local...