Mi Tierra Caliente is a Mexican restaurant in Anaheim. The true stars occupy a page under the title “Antojitos Michoacanos” (Michoacán Delights). Here, you’ll find the state’s enchiladas, folded as if a quesadilla and using cotija cheese. Also available are chavidencas, a version of a mulita, and albondigas de pollo (chicken meatballs). But the best dish is something called a mitote, rarely seen in el Norte in a restaurant setting: a hefty serving of morisqueta (itself a rare dish of rice cooked in tomato salsa) topped with a pork tamale. It’s a Mexican Hungry-Man meal that takes three days to whittle down and has about a million carbs, but whatever: You’ll probably never eat this dish again.
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For as long as I've been a food critic, I've been saying the best way to track immigration is by following a city's restaurant scene, and the proof is in the mitote at Mi Tierra Caliente in Anaheim. When I was growing up, this big r...