Mario's Peruvian and Seafood's fried chicken is chopped into hunks as small as a child's fist, battered and fried until skin and meat molecularly bond. Even still, you'll find yourself peeling off strips of skin, savoring the addictive crackle and the marvelous way it concentrates the requisite flavors of fat and salt.
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Thursday, January 31, 2008 at 3 p.m. by Edwin Goei
LA Weekly's Jonathan Gold once wrote that the chicharron de pollo at Mario's Peruvian Seafood was "something like Peruvian Chicken McNuggets, heavily breaded chunks cooked to resemble fried pigskin, and served with an herbed, citric...