Ask the folks at M & M to comment on the peach-hued walls, lowered ceilings and general bunker-like atmosphere (livened up only by an animatronic James Brown doll and a display case full of dolphin-shaped oil burners for sale), and they'll decline. Wisely so. But the food-perfectly grilled short ribs, snappy okra with nary a touch of sliminess, nummy peach cobbler, amongst others-they'll praise with the intensity of a Sunday-morning gospel choir.
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