The charmingly unsophisticated murals of Mediterranean coastlines and the smiling staff promise solid, casual, family-friendly Italian-American comfort food. And the kitchen at this West HB standby delivers big-time, with generous portions of deftly prepared classics. A dollop of warm sautéed mushrooms elevates the antipasto above the pedestrian. The pastas are al dente, the meat sauce has zip and body, and the chicken marsala nicely balances the sweetness of the wine with a garlicky bite. Pizza is offered in thin or regular versions. Try the latter: The thick layer of mozzarella and chewy crust bring to mind the slices at Costco-only better.
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