In Liang's Kitchen's nou riu mian, the noodles come either belt-wide or string-thin. The former are handmade and springy, resisting your bite and playing to the Northern Chinese preference for wheat-based starches. Vinegar sharpens the anise-scented, murky-brown broths-easily the tangiest, liveliest beef soup in the immediate area. But the sought-after item in each bowl isn't the noodles or the soup. The tendon speaks to the general Chinese fondness of squiggly, jelly-like textures that bowls featuring the bobbing, boulder-sized chunks fetch a premium over just the plain-old beef ones. Lucky diners will get a little bit of both-the slippery, aspic-clear gelatin wiggles before melting; its attached, long-stewed muscle meat falling to shreds. A bowl of just the tendons in soup can also be ordered without the distraction of starch.
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Thursday, February 20, 2014 at 7 a.m. by Edwin Goei
Before Liang's Kitchen closed, the 99 Ranch-anchored plaza had what I estimate to be at least four restaurants serving nou riu mian (braised beef noodle soup) and fried scallion pancakes. Some of the noteworthy ones: Lao Dong and 10...
Wednesday, November 24, 2010 at 3 p.m. by Edwin Goei
They say you need money to make money. You also need customers to attract customers. Witness this principle in action at Liang’s Kitchen, a weeks-old Taiwanese restaurant in Irvine, which, as of this writing, has seen impenetr...