La Rancherita Bakery is a traditional Mexican panadería, but painted on its window is the magic word: "salteñas"-the Bolivian turnover as golden and flaky as the best chicken pot pie. You're supposed to eat the salteña with a spoon lest the hot broth inside scald you, and the crust effortlessly crumbles inward when you dig in, releasing a bit of steam that gives way to a dark jumble of foodstuffs.
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