La Pollada Peruvian Grill is a Peruvian restaurant in Anaheim. No barrier exists between the staging area and the dining room. Save for a few tiny tchotchke’s and a small token photograph of Machu Picchu, nothing else hangs on the walls. Go on a Saturday night and the TV mounted at the back is tuned to Sabado Gigante with the sound turned off. For music, a muscular boombox plays salsa. The most popular dish are tallarins that feature linguine stir-fried with saltado ingredients, coated in the same wok-forged alchemy that transforms the warmth of cumin and the umami of soy sauce into the best chow mein you’ve never had. You see table after table of people twirling the noodles up with a fork as though it were Saturday-night spaghetti at The Olive Garden. The dish is even more in demand than the pollada, the $6.99 signature plate of a flattened chicken filet brushed with a spicy glaze akin to enchilada red sauce and served with rice, a shredded lettuce salad, and a cheese-sauce smothered boiled potatoes the Peruvians call papa huancaina.
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