La Perla's torta ahogada is really the only Jaliscan specialty at this well-kept restaurant; the rest of the menu is tried-and-true Mexican favorites, but rarely will you find them so well-executed. The chilaquiles excel: freshly fried chips topped with ranchero cheese (salty yet creamy), then drenched in the same salsa that engulfs the torta ahogada.
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"¿Ahogadas, o bien ahogadas?" the owner of LA PERLA TAPATIA asked me the other day. "Drowned, or really drowned?" Only two foodstuffs in the world can inspire such a question: pancakes before a maple-syrup shower and the tort...