A cardboard sign taped to the driver's window says the birria sold here is estilo Apatzingán, but that's more a marketing ploy to grab the attention of Santa Ana's massive michoacano population than any true regional specialty. That said, the birria pleases: roasted, then left in its juices until someone orders it, at which point it's hacked into soft strands and-depending on your choice-placed on a plate alongside beans and rice or in a Styrofoam bowl along with its broth. Regardless of your choice, the corn tortillas are all-you-can-eat.
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The Santa Ana lonchera La Cascada surely has one of the stranger ads in Orange County’s dining scene. A vinyl banner hanging from its side features a jungle; its inspiration, a waterfall, rushes down the right side into a lago...